The Indian-Pacific Train across The Nullabor – Part 1

From the Indian Ocean at Perth, this iconic train takes three days and three nights to make its way across Australia to the Pacific Ocean at Sydney. I was going to get off at Adelaide, two days and two nights into the journey.

When I arrived at East Perth station I discovered a problem. The travel agent had told me that my single cabin was two carriages from the dining car, sorry, Queen Adelaide Restaurant. It wasn’t; it was four. My scooter would be in the luggage van for the journey and I wasn’t sure I could walk that far.

I spoke to the on-board train Manager, Bruce. “Give me one minute,” he said. “We don’t have a full train.” He found me another cabin that was only a carriage and a bit from the Restaurant and Lounge. Even better, it was a twin cabin, so slightly bigger, with its own facilities. Ie a shower cubicle with a loo and sink in it.

We set off at 11.55am and I went in search of the Outback Lounge with its comfy seats, bar and curtains at the windows. There were half a dozen people there already, who invited me to join them. There was Toula and her Mum, Koula, who had come to Australia from Greece when Toula was about four or five. And Bev, who travels by train because she hates flying. Bianca and Trudy worked for the train company, something to do with Customer Experience. They were off today and already well into the included wine.

Then it was lunch. The food was divine, as good as any top restaurant, and there was a good selection of wines. I had the barramundi, a soft white fish that was delicately cooked with fine herbs. It’s a popular dish in Australia and I fell in love with it.

The views during the first hours after leaving Perth were amazing. There were wide, flat, open areas and hilly wooded scenes. All too soon the sun set on our first day and the world outside the train disappeared. The view became black.

 

A sleepy koala and a cool dude kangaroo

“I know I’ve seen them before and I’ve seen them in the wild, but this trip I want to see kangaroos and koalas.” I told Alison and David. So we went to Caversham Wildlife Park in the Swan Valley, WA’s wine region which lies northeast of Perth. It rained on our way there but the sun came out to greet us when we arrived. Alison wanted to see the owls. We were surprised to find them awake. There was one called “Barking Owl” which, when it opened its beak, made a yapping dog noise. With long, droopy feathers, it also somehow resembled a dog. 

We walked past the pink and grey Galahs (birds), however beautiful they look. Many live in the trees in and around Rockingham, including the park opposite Alison’s house. We could see them every day. 

A bit further on we found the koalas. We made it to the enclosure where you are allowed to touch them by the skin of our teeth before it closed. They were about to lock up. Inside was a line of cropped to head height eucalyptus trees, with lots of koalas nestled in the tops. Most were asleep, which is what koalas do best. The guide pointed out one we could stroke. He was called Geordie and had the softest fur. He ignored us as we gently stroked him and took photos. He carried on snoozing. 

 

There were lots of kangaroos in the walk through enclosure, most of them quite small. There was a mother with legs sticking out of her pouch. Others lazed about in groups, posing for the camera. I was amused by the albino one who looked directly at the camera with a “I’m a real cool dude” pose and expression. All he needed was sunglasses.


That evening I met up with Nikki. We haven't seen each other since we were at college together twenty-something years ago. It was great to see her and the conversation didn't stop all night.


Perth had been everything I wanted it to be. Now for the iconic train ride!